Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Zona Coreana

Not sure how it happened, but in the 90s, Koreans (it's probably safe to assume they're from South Korea) started flooding into Mexico City and into two areas, in particular. They conduct business in the notorious Tepito neighborhood, and many keep homes and businesses in Zona Rosa. Now, if you don't know Mexico City, it poses a very interesting dynamic in both places. Tepito is considered a rough and tumble kind of place and home to many famed boxers and wrestlers, and Zona Rosa is the gay and counter-culture district. I keep my distance from Tepito, but I frequent Zona Rosa since it's only three blocks away. So close I can smell the kimchi and fish sauce

Imagine my surprise and excitement when I found out that I lived a mere three blocks from Zona Rosa, or now well-known as Zona Coreana (Korean Zone). They occupy a quieter part of Zona Rosa, and you can find as many as three Korean grocers on the same block (and one very stern owner at Seoul Mart). I walk these streets frequently, and there is an eerie comfort I get from walking amongst people that look like me. Sometimes--er, most of the time--I just want to blend in, and Zona Coreana is a fabulous place to do just that. Secretly, the Koreans and I know we're different, but to most everyone else, we all look the same. :)

I've been on a never ending search for good Asian food here in Mexico City, and it's been a dream to live near Zona Coreana. So far we've been to 4 of maybe 10 Korean restaurants in the area, and after consulting with two Koreans, both pointed me to Chang Won on Florencia. (Sorry for not writing down the address, but it's one block south of the Angel.) 

I'd love to give you a glowing recommendation to get yourselves there for dinner sometime, but I'm not quite convinced. The small dishes, banchan, were delicious. Our main dish of grilled chicken turned out to mostly be fat. They passed the kimchi litmus test, but I'm going to have to go back again, maybe with a Korean friend who knows what's up. Because, you see, I've been watching... The Koreans get a better selection of banchan than the non-Koreans, a trend I saw in the US, too. AND, I think there's a secret menu written on those pieces of paper hanging from the wall that only readers of Korean have access to. What's up with that? 

I'll report back when I've decoded the mysteries on the wall...

Banchan selection at Chang Won

Spicy Grilled Chicken (more like Spicy Grilled Fat Bits)



12 comments:

  1. Alice, I've been meaning to get over to la Zona Coreana on our next visit to the area. I first read about it in Nick Gilman's book, "Good Food in Mexico City".

    As you probably already know, he has a blog as well.
    http://goodfoodmexicocity.blogspot.com/

    Saludos,
    Don Cuevas

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  2. Honestly, I haven't been thrilled with Gilman's write-ups. He posted something once about a Thai restaurant in Roma, and I was thoroughly disappointed. I make better Thai at home! I haven't tried his recent Chinese restaurant recommendation, but I'm going to give it a chance.

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  3. Nick Gilman has his favorites; some of them aren't mine, but his blog and book are still useful guides to eating in México D.F.

    Saludos,
    Don Cuevas

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  4. Hi I'm Lee and I'm a Korean who's interested in Mexico.so I've sneaked your blog out lately :) well I guess the secret menu on the wall could be the seasonal thing. that's why they don't put them on the regular menu, I have no idea about how Mexico weather is though :) or that could be a new menu they've just started serving. I think they sould've explained the menu in Spanish or English :)

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  5. Hi Lee, You should definitely come check out Mexico. Since we are over 7,000 feet up, the weather in Mexico City is unlike what most people think about Mexican weather. It is nearly perfect every day of the year! The hottest time of the year is April/May, but really, not that hot. It's very ideal!

    Yes, the writings on the wall should be in Spanish and Korean!! But I doubt they will ever be translated. There was a restaurant that I went to once in San Francisco, and they had a secret menu if you read Chinese. So my friends and I found a translated copy of it online and took it to the restaurant! :)

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  6. Alice,

    This is like the Chinese restaurants in Toronto. They have lots of items writing on the walls in Chinese that cannot be found in the menus. When I go eat with my family, its not a problem since they read Chinese and do all the ordering. Its when we go out with my in-laws (they're Vietnamese) and they want me to order then I encounter problems since I can only read a few Chinese words.

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  7. This post is a jewel.

    From 1988 to 2001 I lived in Mérida St. at Roma and as a gay guy, walked everyday to Zona Rosa. When I left Mexico City I came back after a couple of years and got surprised on how Zona Rosa became the Korea Town.

    It was a combination of feelings of nostalgy, fear and curiosity and that HELPED ME for sure to understand the reactions and feelings of American citizens and all those Mexico Towns spread all over.

    Things change and it is nice to see how Zona Rosa recovered its vibe with the help ok Koreans.

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  8. Hi Jorge!

    Zona Rosa is such a unique blend of immigrant, gay, and goth culture. When you visited, did you notice the goth scene at Metro Insurgentes? Zona Rosa has become a place where many different groups feel safe and accepted.

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  9. Yeah! I noticed it. There where a few when I used lo live there. They used the Glorieta Insurgentes as a meeting spot on their way to Chopo. It was nice... ;)

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  10. Hi there,

    We used to live in Mexico City and frequented the Korean markets often. We are now in Merida, Yucatan and are desperate to restock on some key items that are quickly dwindling from our stores.

    Do you by chance have the phone number to any one of these markets so we can give them a ring and see if they are able to ship items to us? If you do, would you please post them for us?

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  11. Brent and Stan -- I don't have any phone numbers, but let me stop by one of the bigger stores and get a number and see if they deliver.

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  12. I'm Mexican and looking for a recommendation on Korean restaurants, found this post. Very disappointing. I won't go to this restaurant and will surely alert people. How come Koreans get better food? everyone is paying and mind you, the restaurant is in Mexico. I rather spend my money somewhere else where it's deserved. Thanks for the review!

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